Zagreb

Zagreb is a city in Europe, the capital of Croatia. It is located between the hill Medvednica and the river Sava, in central Croatia.

The town came to existence in the 11th century, when two smaller towns called Kaptol and Gradec merged. Kaptol was home to nobles and priests, while the residents of Gradec were small traders and craftsmen.

The Croato-Hungarian king Bella IV found protection from the Turks within Zagreb town walls, and as a sign of gratitude, in 1094 he decided to officially declare the settlement a "free royal town".

Croatian Parliament ("Sabor") has been meeting in Zagreb since the 16th century.

In the 1860ies, Zagreb became an important railroad junction: one railway went from Zidani most in the west to Sisak in the southeast, and the other went from Budapest in the northeast to Rijeka in the southwest. The part of the town now called Donji grad was built at that time. Today, Donji grad is practically a part of the city center.

The area between the rail station (south of Donji grad) and the river Sava was built in the time between the two world wars. These city parts are called Trnje and Trešnjevka, and they were inhabited by poor industrial workers. Conversely, rich neighbourhoods such as Šalata, Tuškanac and Pantovčak were created on the north of the city, just below the Medvednica hill.

After the WWII the city has grown immensely. It spread to the east to a small town of Sesvete, to the west up to Podsused. The so called New Zagreb districts were built to the south, on the opposite bank of Sava. New neighbourhoods were erected on the north, too, Gračani, Šestine etc.

According to the 2001 census, Zagreb and its suburbs have 770 058 residents. The whole metropolitan area barely exceeds one million people.

Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, politically and in many other ways. Major industries are located in the city (and suburbs), such as Pliva (pharmaceuticals), INA (oil), Končar (electronics) and Tesla (also electronics). The city hosts a major fair called Zagrebački Velesajam.

Trams and buses are used for mass transit, and it's not hard to navigate around the place. The city centre is the ban Jelačić square.

The city is known for its theatres such as HNK, Kerempuh, ZKM and Gavella. Zagreb's University is the largest and most accomplished university in the country.

There are various sport clubs in the city, but most popular sports are football (Dinamo and Zagreb), basketball (Cibona and Zrinjevac), handball (Badel 1862) and water polo (Mladost).

Zagreb for Visitors

Croatia is once again becoming known throughout the world for its unspoiled beaches, crystal-clear sea, ancient cities, and Mediterranean charm, but most tourists visiting the country seem to give its Gothic capital city a miss. A huge mistake. I read Croatia travelogues from time to time just to see how other people see my favourite place on Earth and I've found that every single one invariably mentions that Zagreb was planned as a quick stop-over on the way to the Adriatic Sea, but upon arrival foreheads were smacked when faced with one of the most beautiful cities in Central Europe. Dear traveller, I hope to help you avoid such a mistake in the future. Welcome to the Croatian metropolis.

A Walking Tour

Probably the nicest thing for visitors to the historic Croatian capital is that virtually all its major sights are more or less within walking distance from the city centre, and for those that aren't, the city is served by an efficient and inexpensive tram system (ZET - http://www.zet.hr/). In this writeup I will outline the two main walking routes that most zagrepčani recommend: Kaptol-Gradec and The Green Horseshoe. It is, of course, easiest and most logical to relate these routes to Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića (Ban Josip Jelačić Square), which is the heart of Zagreb in many ways and is really where any tour of Zagreb should begin.

The square is lined with intricately decorated buildings coloured in the soft pastels of the Austro-Hungarian Empire while blue trams pass each other through the square's southern end. On the northern end, a large statue of Ban Josip Jelačić, 19th century Croatian military hero and viceroy, points a sabre forward in a pose from the 1848 revolutions. The Croatian tricolour and the Zagreb coat of arms flutter from the lampposts in celebration, people and pigeons swarm over the cobblestones, and onlookers sip coffee in front of the fountains. The tourist bureau, where you can get a very nicely drawn map of the city, is on the east end.

Route One: Kaptol-Gradec

Starting from Jelačić Square, right away you'll be able to see the twin spires of Zagreb Cathedral in the northeast, which is only about a minute's walk away. Simply walk towards the cathedral, up Bakačeva (a street that starts in the northeast corner of the square) to Zagreb's Kaptol district, one of the two old towns that make up the nucleus of Old Zagreb. Here's what you'll see:

• North: The cathedral roundabout, at the centre of which is a tall white column supporting a golden statue of the Virgin Mary surrounded by four golden angels. In the distance you can see Sljeme, the peak of the mountain against which the city rests, and on a clear day you can even see the tower on its summit.


• East: Zagreb's most famous landmark, Zagreb Cathedral, and its 15th century fortress. The cathedral itself dates back to the end of the 11th century. Don't be afraid to step inside; visitors are welcome and you'll be glad you took the time to see it.


• West: Souvenir shops and restaurants, as well as the entrance to the Dolac, Zagreb's main market that lies directly north of Jelačić Square. This is where you should head next.

Dolac Market is best visited in the morning when all the fresh meat and produce straight from the countryside is put out for sale. The hustle and bustle, the sights and smells; it's not to be missed! From Dolac, head southwest to the northwest corner of Jelačić Square, where Radićeva begins. Radićeva (named after Croatian political leader Stjepan Radić) is a fairly steep street since it leads up to Gradec, which is the other old town along with Kaptol that makes up the nucleus of Old Zagreb. Walk up the street until you see the statue of St. George (Sv. Juraj) to your left. Head towards this statue, make a sharp left, and you'll be facing the famous entrance to Gradec, the Kamenita vrata ("Stone Gate").

The Kamenita vrata is the only remaining gate of the old town of Gradec, which is today referred to as Gornji Grad ("Upper Town"). Inside the gate is a shrine to the Virgin Mary from 1731, the focal point of which is a painting of her dating back to the 16th century said to have miraculously survived a fire from that time completely unscathed. Many candles are lit and messages of thanks are left inside by the citizens of Zagreb, making for a moving experience. Once you pass through the gate, Markov Trg (St. Mark's Square) lies ahead (west). Here's what you'll see:

• North: Zagreb's second major landmark after the cathedral, St. Mark's Church. The church was built in the 13th century, though its 19th century tiled roof is what really makes it famous today. The roof is tiled in the Croatian Slavic tricolour (red, white, and blue) and displays two crests in mosaic form: that of the Croatian Triune Kingdom on the left, and that of the city of Zagreb on the right. As with Zagreb Cathedral, take the time to step inside.


• East: The Croatian Parliament (Hrvatski sabor) (http://www.sabor.hr/)


• West: Banski dvori, the 19th century former residence of the Civil Governor and Viceroy (Ban) of Croatia while the Croatian Kingdom was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is now the seat of the Croatian government. (http://www.vlada.hr/)


• South: Lotršćak Tower (kula Lotršćak), a Romanesque watchtower built in the mid-13th century. Every day its cannon is fired at noon to mark the day, according to legend, that a cannonball fired from Lotršćak landed on the lunch of the Turkish Pasha, convincing him to call off his siege of the city. The firing of the cannon has been kept as a tradition just in case he ever thinks of coming back. Head down Ćirilometodska (named after Saints Cyril and Methodius), the street running south towards Lotršćak, and go up the tower for a fantastic 360 degree view of Zagreb (see the virtual reality tour below).

Directly east of the tower is Katerinski trg (St. Catherine's Square), where you'll immediately see crkva Sv. Katerina (St. Catherine's Church), built in the 17th century. From St. Catherine's Square, head south towards Strossmayerovo šetalište (Josip Juraj Strossmayer's Promenade). Go right up to the fence and take in the sweeping view of Zagreb below from the southern edge of the Upper Town. From this vantage point, you have an even better view of the upper portion of Zagreb Cathedral to the east. To get back to the foot of Radićeva and the northwest corner of Jelačić Square, take the stone stairway down on the east side, and after a narrow alleyway you'll pop out precisely where you started.

Route Two: The Green Horseshoe

Most of Zagreb's squares, parks, cultural institutions, and museums can be found in an uninterrupted line along the Green Horseshoe of Zagreb (Zelena potkova Zagreba). This route is much longer than the first one above, but it also offers more opportunties for relaxation as it's easy to forget among the trees that one is in the middle of a massive city. The idea for such a ring of greenery was hit upon following the earthquake of 1880, which was responsible for great destruction, but also sparked a period of urban improvement in addition to the rebuilding effort.

Once again starting from Ban Josip Jelačić Square, head west along Ilica, a major street that runs through Zagreb's shopping district. Stop by Vincek's Confectionery (Slastičarnica Vincek) for the absolute best pastry and cake in town--I recommend a traditional Zagrebačka kremšnita ("Zagreb Creamslice") with a good cup of coffee. Stores along Ilica sell anything and everything, from the latest CDs to the latest in European fashion, and occasionally you can find some great deals. Now take any street south, preferably one of the closer ones that are lined with cafés, until you reach Masarykova (Tomas Masaryk Street). Follow this street southwest until you reach Trg maršala Tita (Marshal Josip Broz Tito Square). Here's what you'll see:

• South: The Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište), which stages all sorts of symphonies, operas, and ballets, both domestic and foreign. I think it's the most beautiful building in all of Zagreb. (http://www.hnk.hr/)


• East: The Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej). (http://www.hrskolski-muzej.hr/)


• West: The Zagreb Museum of Art and Craft (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt Zagreb). (http://www.muo.hr/)


• North: The University of Zagreb (Sveučilište Zagreb) administration building. (http://www.unizg.hr/)

Once you've taken in the sheer beauty of this square, take a little detour west over to Frankopanska (Fran Krsto Frankopan Street) and head south to Zagreb's largest museum, the Mimara Museum (http://www.mimara.hr/). The Mimara was founded after the death of collector Ante Topić Mimara in 1987, who left his huge art collection to Zagreb in his will. Head back to where you came from and then continue on south towards Trg braće Mažuranić (Mažuranić Brothers Square). Here you'll find the Zagreb Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej Zagreb), which houses a rich collection of traditional Croatian folk costumes, tools, weapons, and ceramics, among other things, as well as those of non-European cultures (http://www.mdc.hr/etno/). Continuing on further south, you'll find the old university library and the Croatian State Archives (Hrvatski državni arhiv) (http://www.arhiv.hr/) in Marulićev trg (Marko Marulić Square). Finally, at the bottom of the Green Horseshoe along Mihanovićeva, lies Zagreb's Botanical Garden (Botanički vrt), which is protected as a national monument.

After exploring the gardens, head east along Mihanovićeva until you reach Tomislavov trg (King Tomislav Square). Here's what you'll see:

• South: Glavni kolodvor (central train station), in front of which is a major tram stop.


• West: Starčevićev trg (Ante Starčević Square), behind which is the Hotel Esplanade. This is the direction you just came from.


• North: A huge statue of the first Croatian king, Tomislav, who is on horseback raising his sceptre (I highly recommend the dark beer named after him). The reliefs on the sides of the monument depict Tomislav's coronation at the beginning of the 10th century. Further behind this statue is the beautiful Umjetnički paviljon (Zagreb Arts Pavilion) (http://www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr/).

Head north through King Tomislav Square, past all the breathtaking multicoloured buildings, and you will reach Strossmayerov trg (Josip Juraj Strossmayer Square), where you'll see the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Hrvatska akademija znanosti i umjetnosti) (http://www.hazu.hr/) on its northern end. This is the home of the renowned Baška Tablet (Bašćanska ploča). Continue on across the street and you'll suddenly find yourself in a true oasis: Trg Nikola Šubića Zrinjskog (Nikola Šubić Zrinjski Square), or simply Zrinjevac. This is probably the best place to relax in the city centre, with its fountains and huge wall of dappled maples that line the square and block most of the noise generated by the city's traffic. When you're ready to tear yourself away from the tranquility of the flower gardens and the Austrian-style gazebo, head up Praška (Prague Street) back to Jelačić Square.

If you're still up for some walking, I suggest you continue east from Jelačić Square along Jurišićeva until you reach Trg hrvatskih velikana (Square of Great Croats), where you'll see the impressive Croatian National Bank (http://www.hnb.hr/) and Ministry of Education and Sport (http://www.mips.hr/) buildings, along with two large triangular fountains. Head north along Draškovićeva, turn west on Vlaška, and you'll eventually run into the leaning statue of renowned Croatian poet August Šenoa on a picturesque street corner. Keep going straight (you'll see the cathedral ahead of you) and you'll eventually end up back where you started.

Other Attractions

• Zagreb Zoo: (Zoološki vrt Zagreb) A small, charming zoo that has recently undergone renovation, situated beside a large wooded park. Perfect for escaping the summertime heat and it's conveniently located right across from Maksimir Stadium. (http://www.zoo.hr/)


• Jarun: A massive artificial lake constucted for the 1987 World University Games, located on the southwest side of New Zagreb. A nice place to rest and have a bite to eat. The nightlife here is very good, from what I hear. (http://www.jarun.hr/)


• Mirogoj: Essentially the Croatian national cemetery, where most of Croatia's important historical figures, nobles, and leaders are buried. The cemetery is widely considered to be among the most stunningly beautiful in all of Europe and therefore a must-see. The recently constructed Croatian Homeland War Memorial is here as well. (http://www.gradskagroblja.hr/Mirogoj/mirEN.htm)


• Sljeme: As I mentioned earlier, Sljeme is the peak of the mountain just north of the city. Everything from skiing to hiking is possible here, and this is one of the places where Croatian Olympic skiing stars Janica and Ivica Kostelić like to train. (http://www.sljeme.hr/)


• Šalata: Go west on Vlaška, past the August Šenoa statue, until you come to an open intersection and see a steep stone stairway (Schlosserove stube) across the street behind a newsstand. Head up those stairs and you'll be faced with not only a massive sports complex, but also an assortment of night clubs and, a bit further up the mountain, a beautiful park in which the University of Zagreb's Faculty of Medicine lies hidden away.

Virtual Reality Tour

You can experience a bit of Zagreb from your computer in over 30 high-quality interactive panoramas of its streets, squares, parks, and even its famous cathedral:

http://www.burger.si/Croatia/Zagreb/Zagreb.html

Zagreb Time Travel

And now for something completely different, check out Dario Bardić's Time Travel; a neat one minute film detailing some of the changes Zagreb has seen over the last century.

http://members.ams.chello.nl/d.bardic/timetravel.html

Official Websites

City of Zagreb
http://www.zagreb.hr/

Zagreb Tourism Board
http://www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr/